Is this the road to enlightenment ?

This blog is to keep friends and relatives informed about my ride on a motorcycle throughout the United States in September 2005. And when back,I decided to carry on with other rides...

Wednesday, August 31, 2005

Departure tomorrow !!!


That's Celia and her Ducati. She won't be traveling with us but she's taking good care of the bike nonetheless. It's a Ducati ST4s, a much better bike than mine but I don't care, I am happy with my old proven workhorse. Celia and I met in Crawford (Texas) in August 2003. Celia left a note on my bike because at the time she had exactly the same, a red 1999 Sprint ST. We met, liked each other (I guess so anyway..), she introduced me to her husband Steve and there we are, getting ready to ride through the United States together. The departure is skedded for tomorrow morning Thursday September 1st. Everything is ready (or so I think). Hurricane Katrina may oblige me to change the planned route when getting near Louisiana at the end of the Natchez-Trace Parkway. We shall see.

Thursday, August 11, 2005

Map


That's the map of the trip. Thanks to USA Today for providing the hardware...

Sunday, August 07, 2005


Mapping is done! Overall, it took me about five full days. I write everything on bristol paper cards about 10x6 inches that I'll put in the tank bag map pouch. The roads numbers, the nearest destination and the distance. The map is only a back-up and with the GPS (an Emap) I am pretty much set. It's a system I have been relying on for several years and it works beautifully. I'll use mostly backroads and can't rely on road signs.
The overall trip is about 9,500 miles, that's 15,000 kilometers. Over 30 days, that makes an average of about 315 miles (500 km) per day. That should be ok. Oh, and by the way, that's me...

Friday, August 05, 2005

On s'entraine...

Bon, now with text only. No photos. Should be faster. By the way, for those of you that would ask about the title of the blog "Is this the road to enlightment ?". I got it from a bumper sticker on a bottled water delivery truck in DC. I was stuck behind while it was delivering its cargo and thought it was fun. My other favorite is "Jesus is coming back, look busy".


I just wanted to know how long it would take to upload a photo and a little bit of text on the blog using a wireless connexion (not wi-fi, wireless). It's what I will use mostly during the trip (provided there is cell phone coverage in the barren areas of the wild west). Well, takes about ten minutes altogether... Doable. The photo was taken on the Blue Ridge Parkway on my trip from Texas to Maryland two years ago. I had the road to myself and had stopped to enjoy the early morning sun. Then three repair trucks came by and I was stuck behind them for miles.....

Thursday, August 04, 2005


That's the Guzzi. It's red as well because red is faster than other colors....

Who am I, dans quel état j'erre....

Well, a very ordinary guy. I just happen to ride motorcycles and that's my passion (with my wife and kids of course but they're not the topic of this blog). I've been doing it for the last 23 years on mostly BMW and Triumph (Beemers and Trumpets for those in the know). I also have an old (1980) Moto Guzzi le Mans II that I bought last year in Massachusetts and that I love (but not to the point of riding it across the States). I'll post a photo of it later.
I started riding motorcycles when I was 22, thanks to my friend Etienne. He doesn't ride anymore but I am still eternally grateful to him. We did together a wonderful trip in 1988 to the "Elefanttreffen" in Austria, riding through the Alps in winter on the Deutscher Alpenstrasse. One of my best trip but boy it was cold !!! I had a BMW K100 at the time and he had a BMW R8OST (I bought this bike from him later and still have it, stored in France).
Then I rode the Alps again in 1988 with my friend Alain on my K75 with him on a BMW R100/7 (gorgeous bike, I wish he still had it). It was June and it never stopped raining !!! We then did the Pyrénées in 1989.
In 1990 I rode a 1987 Triumph Bonneville (one of the last produced at the now defunct Meriden factory) ) to Boden in the north of Sweden to Stockholm where I lived at the time. About 400 hundred miles. The beast was vibrating so much that it disloged a tooth filing. I later killed that bike trying to ride it back from Stockholm to Paris. The engine seized near Malmö in the south of Sweden and I finished the trip on a train and the bike on a truck.
I then had from 1992 to 1996 the "new" Triumph models built at the new Hinckley factory (a Trident 750cc and then a 900cc) in France and Belgium where I moved in 1993. I bought them new to support the rebirth of this old and famous English marque and I am glad I did. They are now flourishing and giving BMW and the Japanese a run for their money. I travelled to Alsace, Germany and Luxembourg and did a trip to the UK as well with my soon to be wife Elizabeth as pillion. An old Englishman told us in Gladstonbury that we were "handsome bikers" and an old lady enquired in Salisbury whether "we had any money" to stay in a B&B, seemingly implying that one would only ride motorcycles if broke. I love England (and Scotland, and Wales and Ireland, by the way). Elizabeth doesn't ride with me anymore now we have two little boys.
We moved to New York in 1997 and I had to spend three "dry" years without a motorcycle (very hard, indeed). I rented one once (A R100R) to travel to the Catskills and hit (and killed) a deer on the way back. Elizabeth was with me and we did not crash but that's still the biggest scare of my life (and her's as well I guess...). I foreseewild life as the biggest danger during the coming trip but there is nothing much you can do about it, just be aware and cautious.
We moved to Washington in 2000 and I bought a BMW F650. Very nice bike but I was already planning this big trip across the U.S. and it would have been too small and underpowered to take it (though a lot of Chain Gangers would disagree...). So in 2002 I sold it (*) to buy the Sprint ST secondhand with 9K miles on it (in Lynchburg, Viriginia). It's by far the best motorcycle I've ever owned. Fast, comfortable and altogether very nimble. The engine is an vertical three (cylinders) which is an absolute dream, smooth and powerful with a nice roar.
I rode it back from Waco (Texas) to Washington in September 2003. That's the biggest trip I ever took until now in the U.S. (1,800 miles in four days). I seldom ride on highways and Interstates and wear my rubber (tires) on backroads. They're empty, beautiful and this is how you get to meet the "real America" and its people. A very nice bunch I must say.
I'll take the trip in September with a friend, Steve, that I've met in Waco. He will be riding a Ducati ST4s which belongs to his wife Celia. I'll ride down alone from Washington to Waco between the 1st and the 4th and then we'll go on together to New Mexico, Utah, Arizona, Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado and back to New Mexico and Texas. I'll then ride back by myself to Chincoteague on the Atlantic coast where I plan to meet Elizabeth and the kids for a weekend rest before going back to work. That's the plan anyway.
Oh, one last thing. "English is not the tongue of my mother" as the mayor of Brussels used to say (it's actually my father's mother tongue because his mother was a Scot). Anyway, I grew up speaking mostly French, so please don't take ombrage of mistakes and mispellings.

(*) The funny twist is that a colleague of mine at work wanted to buy a motorcycle to commute and ended up buying back the BMW650ST. He lives basically next door so I rode it again with great pleasure.


The weapon of choice. A Triumph Sprint ST. It's a 1999 model, so pretty old by American standards (Europeans tend to keep their motorcycles much longer) but in perfect shape. It has 24K miles on it right now.
To make it more confortable for long rides, it is equiped with a Ohlins rear shock, Race-Tech fork emulators, Gen-Mar bar risers, a Corbin seat, laminar lip, and EBC front disc rotors (not yet installed on this photo). Otherwise, it's stock. It has little additional PIAA lights under the front fairing that you can see in the picture. They're very useful to spot deers in the woods when riding at night (see later post...)


This is me on a ride to the Skyline Drive last February; My bike is the one on the left. The other one is a red Triumph Sprint ST also, belonging to a friend.
I know I look like a dork but I have only one skin and I intend to keep it for a while. So a good leather suit is a nice thing to have.